Stagnation in Francophone Cameroon

Louis Egbe Mbua

It is a strange twist of fate: how privilege can turn into disaster; how the privileged elite may be so wrong headedly spoilt -- such a pity. A touch down at the Douala Airport in Cameroon reinforces beliefs that what is served on a platter of gold may turn out to be a bitter pill that may not be swallowed by hard-working citizens. For almost half a century, the elite of this part of Cameroon have held sway in Power. Ahmadou Ahidjo from Garoua came; did his own part of development and left. Monsieur Paul Biya, from Mvomeka, again from French-Speaking Cameroon also arrived, did little or nothing and has never left after 27 years. The English-Speaking Cameroon on the West Bank of the River Mungo has not had a look in. Rather, their human and natural resources have been looted, supposedly going to develop Douala, Edea, Ebolowa, Garoua all in La Republique du Cameroun; so the story goes. Or is it?

Arriving Douala, the economic powerhouse of Cameroon paints a completely different story. One could hardly recognise the once shining and state-of the art international Airport, which was the pride of Cameroon. The deterioration of this once colossal edifice is frightening. Tiles have never been replaced; no electronic notice board to inform passengers on their various destinations and schedule. Is this Africa? Well, yes but Africa in the sub-sahara. A few hours behind, one had arrived Tripoli from Gatwick, London on board The Afriquiyah Airways with their distinctive 9.9.99 logo on the Airbus 320. While one can say that Gatwick was a class ahead, Tripoli was not far behind in their organisation. Nobody asked for a bribe to pass through custom. Although flights are delayed, there was a modern electronic notice board detailing the different flight schedules. Another Africa? No. A Renaissance Africa? Perhaps. Development? Correct. Back to Douala.

The external decorations of the International Airport have remained untouched for at least 30 years. The old paint has worn off; the assignations have never been renovated. Okay, that may be due to the crise economique that has been on-going since 1987 -- 22 years now. At least there must be something good about Douala. We have Swiss Air, Belgian Airlines, Air France, Kenyan Airways and all the popular Air carriers landing at the Douala International Airport. Now, who are these people coming to Cameroon; and why? Firstly, on arrival and checking out, there is a mass of unemployed youths roaming around the airport --looking for the odd job here and there that may be provided by incoming travellers. So, why are they not given jobs in the city? A quick glance at the roads around the Douala Airport provides tentative answers. These roads have not been maintained for at least twenty years. Where have the revenues from all the Airport taxes gone to? I asked one of the youngsters hanging around. Well, you may ask Mr. Paul Biya was his answer, shrugging his shoulders. Now why not renovate the entire Airport, providing these youths with real employment; at the same time generate revenue from taxes?

We are now going into the City. A whiff of unpleasant smell caught my attention; and I was forced to ask more questions. So I asked my brother: What exactly is this smell? Well, there is a stagnant lake just over the other side. Animals come there to drink was his rapid response. I never asked any more questions as to what, exactly, are the kinds of animals. Why would a city have animals apart from domesticated ones? What kinds? We drove passed the palm tree lined roads of the old beautiful Douala. I noticed all the old buildings. The difference is that they have deteriorated; the paint has all worn off. Don't the owners of these buildings do renovations? Well, no, was the answer. Why? I was met with a deafening silence as though I had committed a crime. So, I had to think of an answer. I began by questioning my own mind. Now, I thought, all the money from SONARA (The State owned National Refinery in Victoria) and the Cameroon Development Corporation (Again based in Victoria) ends up in the Douala City Council in one form or the other? Yes, was the response that entered my inquisitive mind. So, what happened to these funds? Then like flash of lightning, I recalled that there is a Prison Centrale in New Bell, Douala. Who are these people in this prison? Well, a number of people who have allegedly embezzled money from the City Council. How much money? I reminded myself of people stealing millions of pounds of state money; and that some of them are locked up in New Bell. Now, I see.Off to the City.

The next day, early in the morning, I was woken up from my fourth floor flat by a thunderous noise of a multitude of machines. I went to the Balcony to investigate. What I saw was frightening. There were at least a hundred cyclists buzzing through the street transporting people -- women, men, children, and goods on their heads -- no protection. At first glance, I thought it was a motorcycle race. So, I asked: who are these people? I was viewed with surprise and half-laughter. These are "bend-skins". Most of them are graduates from University, they said. They had no jobs after completing their various courses. These machines provide them with jobs; and that this has actually cut down crime since they were idle. All good: and fine. But this is too simplistic a solution and a waste of talent, I said. The solution to this transport problem is easy. Why not build flyovers to cut down traffic congestion in Douala? More effectively, why not build an underground train system like in London so these graduates can apply their knowledge of accountancy, law, management and engineering? This will wipe out this maddening traffic in one full swipe. After all there is money. Nobody answered me. It seemed I was having a soliloquy.Now, let me go out to see. Went out, there was enterprising spirit amongst the population -- traders, big business, banking and commerce. I decided to take a closer look at the drainage system. The entire drainage appears to have been blocked with all kinds of residues. Why can't the City Council contract a cleaning firm to clean this City every day? This will provide employment, prevent diseases such as malaria, put money into the nation's tax coffers, reduce crime? What is the point of all these companies doing business in an unclean city?

There are good parts of Douala which I have not mentioned. But the point of contention is that having privileged Francophone elite who hold sway of power does not guarantee development. For 50 years French-speaking Cameroon has been wielding power, taking resources from English-speaking Cameroon. One would have expected them to use it to advance their own part of the country. But they have done the complete opposite -- running down French-speaking Cameroon to the point of disrepair. Douala is a neglected City.

Next: Advancement in Anglophone Cameroon -- a paradox in African development